What sets organic skincare apart? In short, organic skincare products – certified by the Soil Association COSMOS Organic and COSMOS Natural standards – don’t contain many of the harsh ingredients known to disrupt your skin’s microbiome and your hormones.
Microbiome friendly skincare is a growing trend in beauty. And it’s one that doesn’t look like it’s going anywhere anytime soon, for good reason. But what actually is the skin microbiome, and how do the cosmetics we use affect it?
What is the skin microbiome?
“While there has been increased awareness of the microbiome of healthy bacteria that exists in our gut, there is less awareness currently of a similar microbiome that exists on our skin,” says Michaella Mazzoni, award winning mBANT Accredited Nutritionist. “The skin’s microbiome is the unique make-up of bacteria that exists on the skin. The good bacteria are responsible for many functions such as eating excess oils. This is why many skin conditions, including acne and eczema, can be exacerbated by a disruption in the balance of good and bad bacteria on skin.
“Beyond appearance however, the skin microbiome is also the first line of your body’s immune defence. It prevents harmful microbes from entering your body. Therefore, keeping the skin microbiome healthy is key to keeping the rest of our body healthy.”
Are more of us experiencing skin problems?
Despite there being more skincare products available on the market than ever before, skin conditions are on the rise.
The incidence of skin conditions is high across women from all age groups. 84 percent of women aged under 35, 86 percent of women aged 35-49 and 89 percent of women aged 55+ say they’ve had a skin condition in the past year, says research . A disruption in the microbiome could be the key to this.
Recent studies have shown that we have lost much of the skin bacteria diversity that our ancestors had. Various environmental stressors are responsible for this. For example, more time spent in urban environments and less in nature and the overuse of antibiotics. Some of the ingredients in our everyday cosmetics have also contributed.
So, is it possible to opt for cosmetic products that won’t disrupt the skin microbiome?
Is organic skincare better for skin’s microbiome?
It is important to remember that ‘organic skincare’ has little meaning because the term is not legally regulated. It can be applied to products that have just 1 percent organic ingredients.
“The Soil Association COSMOS Organic standard ensures products have a minimum of 20 percent overall organic ingredients. Also that within that figure, 95 percent of the ingredients from agriculture are organic,” says Paige Tracey, Organic and Natural beauty expert at Soil Association Certification.
“What many consumers may be less familiar with, however, is how many ingredients the COSMOS Organic standard prohibits. These include many skincare ingredients that are known to be damaging to the skin’s microbiome, as well as overall health.”
“It’s important to remember that whether a product is ‘microbiome friendly’ requires in-vitro clinical testing. And, what might work for one person’s microbiome may not work for another. Brands should always be careful if making these claims. But, skincare ingredients known to damage the balance of good bacteria on the skin won’t be found in any products carrying the Soil Association COSMOS Organic or COSMOS Natural logo.”
One example is artificial fragrances. Some of which are known to disrupt the balance of bacteria in the skin microbiome when applied topically. These are not allowed under the COSMOS standards.
Sulphates, often used as a cleansing agent in cosmetics, can also strip the skin of its moisture. This disrupts the microbiome. These are currently being phased out of products certified COSMOS Organic or COSMOS Natural. But, many do not contain sulphates already.
What else should we look out for when choosing skincare products?
“The key is to avoid harsh chemicals that are not going to break down the skin’s protective barrier and leave it more susceptible to pathogens entering,” says Michaella. “Standards like COSMOS don’t allow many synthetic ingredients which are known to be harsh on the skin.
“Smaller INCI lists with as few ingredients in a product as possible will also be better for the microbiome, which is another way in which products that are certified COSMOS Organic or COSMOS Natural may be better.”
There are many organic and natural prebiotic skincare ingredients that support the production of good bacteria in the skin’s microbiome. “Prebiotic ingredients like oats support the gut’s microbiome. They can also do the same for the skin’s microbiome” says Michaella. Along with oats, she recommends rice and chicory root as organic and natural prebiotic ingredients to look out for in skincare.
Odylique for example uses chicory root in its COSMOS Organic certified Prebiotic Rich Hydration Cream.
How can skincare ingredients affect our hormones?
One area of health where it really pays to avoid certain skincare ingredients is the endocrine, or hormonal system. Many common skincare ingredients are already known to disrupt our hormones which can lead adverse health effects including fertility issues, diabetes, obesity, and cognitive disorders.
In 2023 UK regulators requested more scientific data on several common cosmetic ingredients suspected to be endocrine disruptors, to determine if a ban is needed. One of the ingredients currently under review is 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, sometimes called Enzacamene which is used as a UV Filter in sunscreens.
The EU announced this year it was banning the ingredient with all products containing the ingredient needing to be removed from the EU Market by 2025. It has also been banned in Japan and the USA.
What’s the best way to avoid problematic ingredients?
“Until we see a similar ban in the UK, beauty consumers can look for the Soil Association COSMOS Organic or COSMOS Natural logo to avoid this and other endocrine disrupting ingredients,” says Paige.
What is interesting is many of the ingredients that disrupt our skin’s microbiome can also wreak havoc with our hormones.
“For example, artificial fragrances and sulphates can be absorbed through the skin into the bloodstream where they can disrupt our endocrine system,” says Michaella. “In areas of our skin that are more permeable such as the armpits, genitals and face up to 100 percent of these chemicals can actually be absorbed into the bloodstream.”
Artificial fragrances can often contain phthalates, used as a solvent or fixative for the fragrance. Phthalates are known to disrupt the endocrine system and have been linked to neurodevelopment issues in children as well as an increased risk of miscarriage. But, often cosmetics will not have ‘phthalates’ listed in the ingredients – it will just say ‘fragrance’.
“This is why it pays to avoid cosmetics and personal care containing artificial fragrances, which we never allow under our standards” says Paige.
What is interesting is many of the ingredients that disrupt our skin’s microbiome can also wreak havoc with our hormones.
“For example, artificial fragrances and sulphates can be absorbed through the skin into the bloodstream where they can disrupt our endocrine system,” says Michaella. “In areas of our skin that are more permeable such as the armpits, genitals and face up to 100% of these chemicals can actually be absorbed into the bloodstream.”
Artificial fragrances can often contain Phthalates, used as a solvent or fixative for the fragrance. Phthalates are known to disrupt the endocrine system and have been linked to neurodevelopment issues in children[8] as well as an increased risk of miscarriage[9]. However often cosmetics will not have “Phthalates” listed in the ingredients- it will just say “Fragrance”.
“This is why it pays to avoid cosmetics and personal care containing artificial fragrances, which we never allow under our standards” says Paige.
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